Pinball Evangelist  ●  Spreading the Gospel of Pinball One Ball at a Time  ●  Step-by-step repair guides  ●  Full restoration series  ●  Flipper rebuilds · Playfield swaps · Board repairs  ●  Pinball Evangelist  ●  Spreading the Gospel of Pinball One Ball at a Time  ●  Step-by-step repair guides  ●  Full restoration series  ●  Flipper rebuilds · Playfield swaps · Board repairs  ● 
Pinball Repair & Restoration
Spreading
the Gospel
of Pinball
Step-by-step repair guides, full restoration series, and reference documents for pinball hobbyists — from flipper rebuilds to complete playfield swaps.
About Pinball Evangelist
Pinball Evangelist is dedicated to helping pinball hobbyists repair, restore, and maintain their machines through detailed step-by-step video guides. The channel covers everything from basic flipper rebuilds to complete playfield swaps, with content applicable to a wide range of classic Bally, Williams, and Stern machines.

The goal is simple — to document the repair journey honestly, including the mistakes, so others can learn and gain the confidence to tackle their own machines. Every video comes with reference notes and where possible downloadable guides. If you find the content useful, the best way to support the channel is to subscribe on YouTube and share the videos with fellow pinball enthusiasts.
Video Series
Full channel on YouTube →
Scared Stiff Playfield Swap
30+ Episodes
Scared Stiff — Full Playfield Swap
I recently completed a full pinball playfield swap of my Bally Williams Scared Stiff machine. This was the first playfield swap I have ever done — I turned to YouTube to find a step-by-step guide without any luck, so I documented my entire journey installing a new playfield from Mirco Playfields. I hope these videos help others learn from my mistakes and give them the confidence to try their own swap.
Ep 1Getting Started — Why & What to Expect
Ep 2Stripping the Old Playfield
Ep 3Transferring Components
View all 30+ episodes on YouTube →
Fix Weak Flippers on Early Solid State Bally Pinball Machine
3 Parts
Fix Weak Flippers on Early Solid State Bally Pinball Machine
This 3-part series covers a complete flipper rebuild to fix weak flippers on a Supersonic pinball machine — an early Bally/Stern solid state machine. The guide is applicable to most games of the same era.
Part 1 Replacing the Hardware — plunger, link, coil stop, coil sleeve & EOS leaf switch
Part 2 Replacing Solenoids — installing new flipper coils
Part 3 Flipper Button Leaf Switches & Replacing Flipper Bats
WPC Pinball Audio Board Rebuild
5 Episodes
WPC Pinball Audio Board Rebuild
How to fix distorted, crackly sound by rebuilding the Bally Williams WPC Audio Board (A-12738-50004), shown on a Getaway High Speed II. The series finds the problem, desolders and replaces the components (with a diagram of tantalum capacitor polarity, which isn’t marked on the board or in the manual), then tackles the audio amp when the sound issues remained and the heat sink got hot enough to boil water. It ends with the music and speech clear again and the heat sink no longer overheating.
Ep 1What Is the Problem?
Ep 2Desoldering All the Components
Ep 3Soldering the New Components & Capacitor Polarity
Ep 4Still Not Fixed — Replacing the Audio Amp (LM1875)
Ep 5Fixed! The Final Steps
All Videos
View channel on YouTube →
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🔍
Browse by Topic
⚙️
Flippers & Mechs
Rebuilds, weak flippers, coil stops, EOS switches
🎯
Playfield Swaps
Full swap series including the 30-part Scared Stiff guide
⚡
Solenoids & Coils
Replacing coils, transistors, driver boards
💡
Optos & Switches
Diagnostics, alignment, and replacement
🕹️
Bally
Early solid state era repairs and restoration
🎰
Williams
WPC era machines: Getaway, Scared Stiff and more
🔧
Stern
Metallica, modern Stern repairs and guides
✨
Restoration
Full machine restorations from the ground up
Downloads & Reference

Reference documents and guides to accompany the video series. Free to download and use alongside the videos.

PDF
Metallica Drop Target Replacement Guide
Official Stern guide for replacing inline Grave Marker drop targets, plus recommended modifications to prevent misfires.
Download PDF →
Getaway Super Charger — Diagnostic Reference

The Getaway commonly has Super Charger issues resulting in slow ball speed. Use this table to systematically diagnose and resolve the most common faults. Work through the steps in order.

Very EasyIf you can change batteries, work with a screwdriver or wrench
EasyIf you can change a fuse, solder 2 wires, or unplug a board
MediumIf you can crimp a Molex connector or know what a diode band means
HardIf you can replace a transistor or diode on a circuit board
Possible IssueHow to TestFixDifficulty
Balls: MagnetisedRun Super Charger Test in Test Menu with new ballsReplace ballsVery Easy
Loop: DirtyFeel the inside of the Super Charger loopIf rough, sand inside with 1600 grit sandpaper and Novus 2 for lubrication. If not too bad, just use Novus 2 or stainless steel metal polish.Very Easy
Diverter: LooseFeel if diverter moves once engagedTighten diverter. If rivets or screws are loose, replace the diverter.Easy
Magnet Coils: DamagedTest resistance from the coil plug with a multimeter — should read 3–5 OhmsIf no reading, check wiring from plug to coil. If below 3 Ohms, replace the coils.Medium
Opto: Not FunctioningOpen Switch Test in the SC Test Menu and roll a ball around the loop to test all 4 opto switchesSee opto issues below in orderEasy–Medium
Optos: Dirty Transmitter or ReceiverOpto fails switch test or registers intermittentlyClean Opto Transmitter & Receiver with a cotton bud and window cleaner (e.g. Windex)Easy
Opto: Connector or wire from CPU boardWith game off, do continuity test from opto board solder joints to CPU board connector. With game on, measure voltage on solder joints — should read ~12V (Receiver only reads 12V if receiving light from Transmitter)Replace faulty wire or connectorMedium
Optos: MisalignedIn Switch Test, loosen opto screws and twist back and forth to see if switch registersRealign optos and screw in tightEasy
Optos: Damaged Solder JointOpto has been cleaned and continuity/voltage testedRe-flow solder joints on both legs of the mini opto circuit boardsMedium
Optos: Damaged Transmitter or ReceiverTest Transmitter by photographing it with a phone while game is on — a working transmitter shows a purple glow. Test Receiver by blocking Transmitter beam and shining an incandescent torch into receiver — Switch Test should change state.Replace the Transmitter LED or Receiver componentMedium
Driver Board: Connector J122 & J8 Plugs DamagedCheck continuity from connectors J122 (Pins 1, 2 & 4) & J8 (Pins 1, 4 & 2)Replace damaged plugsMedium
Accelerator Board: Connector Pins DamagedCheck continuity with connectors plugged into traces on back of Driver & Accelerator BoardsTry re-soldering first. If damaged or corroded, replace the pins.Medium
Driver Board: Fuse BlownCheck F103Replace blown fuseEasy
Driver Board: Blown TransistorTest TIP102 transistors Q26, Q24 & Q20 with multimeter on Diode setting — black lead on center leg, red on outer legs. Reading should be 0.5–0.7.Guide for replacing transistors →Hard
Accelerator Board: Blown TransistorTest TIP102 transistors Q2, Q5 & Q8 (black lead on center, red on outer, reading 0.5–0.7). Also test TIP-36C transistors Q3, Q6 & Q9 (red lead on center, black on outer, reading 0.5–0.7).Guide for replacing transistors →Hard
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